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Nova Scotia: Scenic Beauty
A WorldWeb.com feature travel article.
Home > Canada > Atlantic Canada > Nova Scotia > Features & Reviews > Town & City Reviews > Editorial
 
Nova Scotia: Scenic Beauty
from WorldWeb.com Travel Guide

Click here to send this image of a Waterfall at Kejimkujik National Park as a free electronic postcard
Kejimkujik National Park by Hank Heerema

Nova Scotia is an amazing province for the visitor. Its closeness to the sea, cultural heritage and history, and varied wild beauty, combined with its wonderful people makes it a very attractive place to visit. Nova Scotia has a wide variety of countryside, ranging from the highlands of Cape Breton, which resemble Scotland, for which the province was named, to the wonderful warm beaches of Northumberland Strait. In contrast southern Nova Scotia has the peaceful orchards of Annapolis Valley known for its apples and picture postcard scenery, and Kejimkujik National Park. The southern shore with its wonderful coastal scenery and charming fishing villages is particularly picturesque and one of the most popular regions for tourists. Not to be forgotten is the busy cosmopolitan port of Halifax the largest city in the Maritime provinces.

HISTORY AND ECONOMY

Click here to send this image of Port Royal, Nova Scotia as a free electronic postcard
Port Royal by Hank Heerema

The area of present day Nova Scotia was settled by the Mi'kmaq First Nations for thousands of years before the first Europeans arrived. John Cabot (sailing under the British flag) reached Cape Breton Island in 1497. The first people who actually settled were French. The French settlement of Port Royal was founded and was the main centre for French control of the region. However in 1621, King James 1st of England issued a royal warrant to Sir William Alexander granting him the lands of the modern-day Maritime provinces, in order to establish a "New Scotland" in the New World. The warrant was scribed in Latin, and so "New Scotland" became Nova Scotia. From then onwards there was an almost continual struggle between the British and the French for control of the area. Although there was really no significant British settlement of the area until Halifax was founded in 1749. After the Treaty of Utrecht in 1713 the Maritimes were ceded to Britain. In the late 1700s thousands of Scottish settlers started to arrive, many of whom settled on Cape Breton Island. These settlers were supplemented by many Empire Loyalists and African- Americans escaping the American Revolutionary War. In the 19th century there was much development. Halifax was the most prosperous city in what was to become Canada. It was a major port for clipper ships, and the Cunard Line was actually founded in Halifax before moving headquarters to the U.K.

Click here to send this image of Fishing Nets, Nova Scotia as a free electronic postcard
Fishing Nets by Hank Heerema

Fishing has always been a major industry and source of livelihood for Nova Scotians. Fish caught off the Nova Scotia coast include cod (presently in decline, and the source of much controversy), mackerel, scallops, lobster and herring. The coast has also been home to pirates, and in the more recent era of the American prohibition, when Nova Scotia was a base for rumrunners. Forestry and pulp and paper are also very important. There is a major steel plant at Sydney, and offshore oil has been discovered. Manufacturing is also increasing in importance. The apples of the Annapolis Valley are a major export, as are blueberries and Christmas trees. As well as being a major North American port, Halifax is an important centre for oceanographic research. The provinces second most important industry is tourism. This is largely because of all that Nova Scotia has to offer the visitor, and the province's very successful and innovative promotion of its attractions

CLIMATE

The climate of Nova Scotia is moderated by its closeness to the ocean, and the warming currents of the Gulf Stream. Summers are pleasantly warm, but seldom extremely hot. Temperatures are a few degrees cooler at the coast. Fall is a wonderful time to visit, with fewer crowds and stunning autumn colours making this time of year particularly appealing. The freshness of spring brings fresh flowers and new growth. There is a lot of snow in winter, but plenty of outdoor activities to take advantage of this. At the coast temperatures are several degrees warmer in winter.

TRANSPORTATION

The Halifax International Aiprort has direct flights from all major Canadian cities and several cities in the U.S.A.. There are also direct flights from London, England and Amsterdam, and summer charters from several other European destinations. The Trans-Canada Highway connects the province with the highway system of North America. There are long distance buses that link Nova Scotia with the rest of the continent, and a good system of inter-provincial buses. Via Rail Canada serves Nova Scotia with its 'Ocean' service from Montréal.

One of the most interesting ways to enter Nova Scotia is by ferry from the surrounding provinces of New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland and Labrador. There is also a high-speed catamaran service, and a conventional ferry linking Nova Scotia from the state of Maine, which saves many hours of driving time. All the ferry ports in Nova Scotia have quick and easy highway access to Halifax.(For more transportation information click here)

FEATURED ATTRACTIONS

One of the least visited areas of Nova Scotia is the Cape Chignecto area. Chignecto is fairly isolated - there is only limited access by road, and few inhabitants. Chignecto Bay is on the east central coast across from New Brunswick. The coastal scenery here is amongst the best in Eastern Canada. The high tides of the Bay of Fundy come in twice daily to the long gravel beaches and have carved the spectacular rocky headlands. This area is renowned for its bird life and geological features. You can search for the many fossils and semiprecious stones that can be found on the beaches and surrounding land. Away from the shore, bears, deer, moose, eagles and even lynx inhabit extensive spruce woods.

The Cape Chignecto Provincial Park was opened in 1998, and covers over 4,000 hectares. A highlight is the 50 km (31 mi) Bay of Fundy Hiking Trail that goes around the Cape. The first 8 km (5 mi)of the trail are well developed and make for an easy day's hiking. However the remainder of the trail is a three-day journey to the end. It consists of old-growth forests, requiring intensive hiking experience and good physical condition. Your efforts will be paid off by magnificent vistas, abundant wildlife sightings and a peaceful solitude with few, if any, people around you. You can drop down to secluded beaches (check for tide times in advance) for a dip in the relatively mild ocean. At the tip of the Cape it is possible to see the Three Sisters, a trio of stone needles rising up 50 m (55 yd) from the beach.

Springhill Miners' Museum at Springhill is a gripping, but also somewhat sobering experience. It is definitely worth a visit. Here visitors can take a tour down a mineshaft to the depths of the mine, which has experienced no less than four major disasters throughout its history - some of the worst in North American Mining History. In the 'bump' (cave-in) of 1957, 12 men were buried alive for 7 days - 75 others lost their lives. The mine closed its doors for mining in 1970. There is a museum with displays of equipment, tools and mining implements. The photography collection is particularly impressive. The guides here are all retired miners and have a wealth of firsthand knowledge of what it was like to work here. On the tour, in the depths of the mine below the shaft, it is possible to sense the eerie damp gloom that the miners must have felt every day as they went about their work. Without the work of the miners, and the coal they brought to the surface to fuel the industry, the industrialized world would never have developed to anything close to the extent that it has. If nothing else, the Springhill Miners' Museum serves as a tribute to some extremely courageous workers, who have contributed much to society as we know it. The museum certainly provides food for thought, which fulfills one of the purposes of travelling to new places.

Click here to send this image of Annapolis Royal, Nova Scotia as a free electronic postcard
Annapolis Royal by Hank Heerema

Annapolis Royal is considered to be one of the oldest communities in Canada. Originally settled by the French as Fort Anne, the British renamed it in honour of Queen Anne after they occupied it in 1710. The town today is full of historic sights and attractions, fine lodgings and great places to eat. For photographers Annapolis Royal is particularly photogenic and picturesque. Most of the historic locations are on St. George Street, these include the King's Theatre. Of considerable interest is the system of dykes that were constructed by the French. These hold back the very high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The best place to see them is from the beautiful Annapolis Royal Historic Gardens. These gardens have several different themes and include an innovative garden, which demonstrates the latest trends in horticulture. Today the tidal waters are also harnessed to produce electricity. This system can be observed by taking a tour of the Annapolis Royal Tidal Power Generating Station. In the centre of Annapolis Royal is the Fort Anne National Historic Site and Museum which has many surviving structures, and effectively showcases the history of Acadian settlement in the area.

Another significant place in the history of French settlement is the Fortress of Louisbourg National Historic Site. This is a very authentic recreation of a town from 250 years ago. Its construction commenced as a 'make work project' in the early 1960s, after many Cape Breton mines were closed. Visitors to the fort get the chance to sample the cuisine of the period in several inns and taverns, and to visit typical homes and gardens of that era. Costumed interpreters re-enact the lives of residents of the fortress. The nearby town of Louisbourg has some fine examples of typical early Nova Scotia architecture. Louisbourg Lighthouse is one of the oldest standing lighthouses on the continent. There is also the Louisbourg Playhouse which has nightly concerts in a 17th Century-style theatre.

When Scottish settlers first came to Cape Breton they were amazed at the similarity with their homeland. Cape Breton Highlands National Park has preserved this. Like Scotland the weather here is often misty and windy, but in summer the temperature usually remains fairly warm. June, July and September are the driest months. The shoreline is magnificent, the mountains wild and bleak and the wildlife abundant. From the coast you can see whales and watch bald eagles swooping down on their prey. The roads climbing up to steep mountain vistas are full of switchbacks, so good brakes are essential. These roads provide a real challenge to cyclists, but the reward is the spectacular view at the top. Hiking facilities in the park are limited, with no multi-day trails, however there are some spectacular views available from some of the shorter trails near the coast. Another attraction is sea kayaking on the ocean - which forms boundaries with two sides of the park. Many of the towns surrounding the park are charming fishing villages. As well as excellent seafood at a reasonable price, and reasonable accommodations, they also have good facilities for adventure travellers who want to take part in some of the more strenuous activities the park has to offer.

Click here to send this image of a Red House in Lunenburg, Nova Scotia as a free electronic postcard
A Red House in Lunenburg by Hank Heerema

Nova Scotia has a link with the ocean that is deeply rooted in the fibre of the whole society. It is impossible to visit the province without experiencing these ties in some way. Probably the best place to observe this is the picturesque and historic town of Lunenburg. As well as being a tourist attraction (it has been designated a United Nations World Heritage Site), it is also the main centre for the province's fishing industry. It is home to one of the largest fishing fleets in North America, and the largest fish-processing plant on the continent. While the fishing industry is in severe decline, Lunenburg is fortunate that it is also so appealing to visitors. German immigrants originally settled Lunenburg in the middle of the 1700s. It has always been a centre for shipbuilding, the most famous ship built here is without a doubt the famous sailing schooner Bluenose, built in 1921. A exact duplicate of this ship has been rebuilt, this is Bluenose II, and it can be seen on its frequent visits to Lunenburg. The town has plenty of old buildings. Of particular interest is the Fisheries Museum of the Atlantic which includes two ships moored in the adjacent ocean as part of its collection. As much as anything it is pleasant to wander down Montague Street looking in the many stores for crafts and marine-themed souvenirs. As is to be expected the seafood here is legendary, and you can enjoy certain fish that are only a fraction of the price they are in big cities and considerably fresher.